By Alan Wood
Explore the ins and outs of restoring a vintage watch. Learn the benefits, challenges, and expert insights from Vintage Gold Watches.
Alan Wood is a trusted vintage watch dealer with over 35 years of private collecting experience. After founding Vintage Gold Watches in 2011, his deep knowledge and infectious passion for mechanical timepieces earned him a highly respected reputation in the industry. Vintage Gold Watches has become a renowned dealer thanks to Alan’s expertise and skilled team of restorers. Alan’s love for vintage watches started as a young Mechanical Entrepreneur and grew into an obsession. He believes the finest watches were made in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s and is thrilled to share them with others.
Should a vintage watch dial remain unrestored, untouched, and allowed to age naturally? This question continues to ignite passionate debates among vintage watch enthusiasts and collectors. The dial of a watch is often considered its face—the feature that defines its personality, charm, and historical significance. For some collectors, the wear, patina, and imperfections accumulated over decades represent the soul of the timepiece, telling a story of its journey through time. These signs of age are cherished as a testament to the authenticity and unique character of the watch, setting it apart as a genuine artefact of its era.
For others, however, the true allure of a vintage watch lies in its ability to transcend time, appearing as flawless and captivating as the day it was made. In their eyes, a restored dial represents not a loss of originality but a celebration of the craftsmanship and artistry that first defined the watch’s beauty. Restoration is viewed as a way to breathe new life into a cherished heirloom, ensuring its appeal for future generations.
This ongoing debate raises fundamental questions about what makes a vintage watch desirable and valuable. Is it the untouched originality that preserves its historical authenticity, or the meticulous restoration that highlights the artistry of its creation? The answers often vary, depending on personal preferences and the specific segment of the watch market in question.
Historical Context: A Practice Rooted in Tradition
It is not widely recognised that, historically, many renowned watchmakers—Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and other celebrated brands—would often replace or restore dials during routine servicing. This practice was particularly common during the mid-20th century when manufacturing techniques were less advanced, and dials were more susceptible to damage from environmental factors such as humidity, UV exposure, and pollution.
In the 1950s and 1960s, smoking was a widespread habit that not only discoloured walls and furniture but also took a toll on watch dials, causing them to yellow, fade, or stain. Service departments at major watch brands frequently replaced dials that had suffered from such wear, either with updated designs or replicas of the original. As a result, many vintage watches touted as having pristine, original dials may, in fact, have undergone replacement decades ago, often unbeknownst to their current owners.
Even today, brands often restore dials as part of their service offerings. While collectors in earlier eras may have appreciated the “like-new” appearance of their serviced watches, this practice has created a complex situation for modern enthusiasts. The challenge lies in discerning whether a dial is a true original or an expertly restored one, a distinction that significantly impacts both the watch’s value and its appeal within various collector markets.
Argument for Keeping Dials Unrestored
For purist collectors, an untouched and unaltered vintage watch dial represents its truest essence. The marks of age, whether in the form of patina, fading, or minor blemishes, are viewed as a testament to the watch’s journey through time. These collectors believe that the imperfections are not flaws, but rather a unique feature that adds character and depth to the watch’s history.
- Originality over Aesthetics: Purist collectors argue that an original, unrestored dial retains a higher value than a restored one, especially in markets where authenticity is paramount. For them, the dial’s untouched state carries more significance than its appearance.
- Military Watches and Historical Significance: Military watch collectors, for instance, often prioritize originality over aesthetics. The untouched dial holds greater importance as it directly connects the timepiece to significant historical events or periods, adding to its value and narrative.
- Rarity and Provenance: Collectors who value rarity and provenance believe that every mark or fade on the dial tells a unique story, making the watch an irreplaceable artifact of a bygone era. The originality of the dial is viewed as a crucial part of the watch’s identity and heritage.
- Value and Monetary Importance: An unrestored dial is often seen as a significant factor in determining a vintage watch’s intrinsic and monetary value. The more original the dial, the more it is considered a valuable piece in the eyes of purist collectors.
While this viewpoint resonates with a specific segment of the market, it is important to note that the broader vintage watch market has gradually evolved. Many collectors now embrace other approaches, including restoration, as equally valid expressions of watch appreciation.
- Market Evolution: While purist collectors remain steadfast in their preferences, other collectors and enthusiasts see value in restoration as a means of preserving and enhancing a watch’s appeal, reflecting the broader evolution of the vintage watch market.
The Case for Restoration
Over the past 25 years, the art of watch restoration has evolved dramatically. Advances in techniques and tools mean that today’s restorations are often of such high quality that even seasoned experts struggle to distinguish them from original dials. Professional restoration workshops now replicate the original finishes, colours, and textures with remarkable accuracy, preserving the integrity of the design while eliminating unsightly damage.
This evolution has profoundly influenced the vintage watch market. Where once purists dominated, insisting on untouched originality, the market has shifted towards a broader appreciation for restored pieces. Today, high-quality restored watches frequently attract equal, if not greater, interest and value compared to their original, unrestored counterparts.
Restored dials cater to a significant portion of collectors who prioritise aesthetic perfection and wearability. A watch with a beautifully restored dial is often seen as a better match for modern tastes, blending vintage charm with a sense of timeless elegance. This trend aligns with the wider preferences of the main vintage watch market, where demand for fully restored timepieces continues to rise.
For collectors and enthusiasts entering the vintage watch world, this shift offers an important insight: while untouched originality may appeal to niche groups, the broader market increasingly values the craftsmanship and effort behind a meticulous restoration.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the debate between originality and restoration in vintage watches highlights the diversity of perspectives within the collector community. For purist collectors, the untouched state of a watch dial is a powerful symbol of its history, character, and authenticity, often making it more valuable than a restored piece.
The patina, fading, and imperfections are not seen as flaws but as vital elements of the watch’s narrative, contributing to its unique provenance. However, as the broader market evolves, restoration is increasingly recognised as a legitimate way to preserve and appreciate a timepiece.
Ultimately, the value placed on a vintage watch—whether original or restored—depends on individual preferences, making the world of watch collecting a dynamic and ever-changing space.
Vintage Gold Watches specialises in vintage watch sales. With a vast stock of around 400 timepieces, we are one of the leading watch dealerships in the UK. If you’d like to stay updated on vintage watch news and be the first to see the latest watches added to our collection, sign up for our weekly newsletter.