Through its Le Temps Divin series, Vacheron Constantin offers a journey towards different cultural horizons, a horological odyssey punctuated by the mechanics of time and staged by artistic crafts.
The deity Chronos from Greek mythology has been chosen to embody organised and measurable physical and linear time. The latter takes the form of two editions equipped with Calibre 1990, featuring a bi-axial armillary tourbillon regulator system with retrograde hours and minutes indication.
Le Temps Divin (divine time), a theme devoted to the myths and cultural perceptions of time, takes a documented approach brought to life by Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers and artisans. The physical notion of time – a linear, measurable concept – is represented by the features of the Greek god Chronos – Saturn in Roman mythology – father of the Horae (Hours), goddesses who personified the division of time.
The timepieces evoking the god Chronos are equipped with Calibre 1990, whose black or blue colour – depending on the version – respectively results from NAC or PVD treatment. Protected by four patents, this movement has benefited from the technical developments made on the Les Cabinotiers Reference 57260, the most complex timepiece in the world when it was presented in 2015 with its 57 complications.
A manual-winding movement with a 60-hour power reserve, Calibre 1990 features an instantaneous bi-retrograde display of time indications and a bi-axial armillary tourbillon with spherical balance-spring. The time can be read on the right-hand side thanks to a retrograde display with grade 5 titanium hands on a semi-circular track punctuated by Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals for the minutes. Confined to a wide flange, this track reveals part of the movement, reinforcing the technical aspect of the timepiece already accentuated by the majestic construction of the regulator.
The configuration of Calibre 1990 leaves ample space on the left-hand part of the dial, occupied only by the bi-axial armillary tourbillon positioned at 9 o’clock beneath a bubble formed by the sapphire crystal. The distinctive feature of this regulator – operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and bearing the small seconds hand – is its dual-axis construction with two interlocking aluminium carriages, each rotating at a speed of 60 seconds.
All the surfaces of the case components are decorated by the engraver. Geometrical motifs inspired by Greek friezes adorn the bezel, the case middle on the winding-crown side, the lugs and their sides, the interhorn space and the folding clasp. These are etched using the taille de joue intaglio technique used for ornamental engraving that involves working the material by tilting the chisel to achieve incisions of different sizes with depth effects through the brilliance of light. This process is particularly well-suited to small surfaces with grooves of no more than 0.2 mm, which are further enhanced by surface finishing using various polishing techniques. For the engraver, the difficulty lies in the regularity of touch when it comes to creating perfectly geometrical motifs, especially when their dimensions have to be adapted to irregular surfaces, such as the watch lugs.
This accurate craftsmanship is complemented by a bas-relief depiction of the god himself holding the hourglass of time in his hand. This realistic micro-sculpture adorning the case middle at 9 o’clock is modelled in relief by removing the material to a depth of 0.5 mm for the sky and clouds in the background and 1 mm for the divine figure and its two wings.
In all, the engraving on this piece took more than 290 hours of craftsmanship, complemented by the hand-guilloché Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the movement mainplate and bridges. The caseback bears Ovid’s famous injunction: ‘Carpe Diem’.
The white gold model is inspired by the famous dome of the Pantheon in Rome. The sides of the case were entrusted to the expert hands of the engraver, who has picked up the geometrical motifs of the dome with its radiant perspective. To achieve the effect of pyramidal depth on a flat surface, the engraver uses the taille de joue method, changing the angle of the chisel to gradually narrow the furrows between the squares of the motif. This optical illusion is a real challenge, as it has to adapt to the changing shape of the case middle that tapers towards the lugs. Some 120 hours of work are needed to achieve this result.
The Master guillocheur was also involved in embellishing the calibre. As a reminder of the ornamentation on the case, an original geometrical motif was devised, extending over the movement mainplate and bridges. In addition to the difficulty of creating an angular geometric motif on rounded bases, the artisan has created seamless, harmonious and continuous decoration, despite the cut-out of the three bridges on the back of the movement.
Technical Specifications:
Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon – Ode to Chronos
Reference
9890C/000R-202C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber
1990
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual-winding
35.50 mm diameter, 10 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
299 components
45 jewels
Anthracite front and back bridges decorated with hand-guilloché Clous de Paris pattern
Indications
Retrograde hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Armillary tourbillon
Case
18K 5N hand-engraved pink gold
45 mm diameter, 20.10 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial
Sun satin-finished grey with circular satin-finished 18K 4N pink gold-coloured hours-markers and minute track
Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
18K 5N hand-engraved pink gold folding clasp
Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model
Unique timepiece
‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and ‘AC’ hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece
Price upon application
Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon – Tribute to infinite time
Reference
9890C/000G-151C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber
1990
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual-winding
35.50 mm diameter, 10 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
299 components
45 jewels
Blue front and back bridges with hand-guilloché geometric pattern
Indications
Retrograde hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Armillary tourbillon
Case
18K hand-engraved white gold
45 mm diameter, 20.10 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial
Sun satin-finished blue with circular satin-finished grey hour-markers and anthracite minute track
Strap
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
18K white gold folding clasp
Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model
‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and ‘AC’ hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece
Price upon application
For more information please visit Vacheron Constantin