The House of Breguet marks its 250th anniversary with the launch of the Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch—unveiled in Paris, the city where Abraham-Louis Breguet pioneered his legendary innovations.
A breakthrough in minimalist watchmaking, the original Souscription pocket watch (below) stood out with its clean architecture—defined by a pure white enamel dial and a single hand that delivered time with striking clarity. Over 200-years ago, it launched using an advertising pamphlet, unlike anything seen before. Now, this historic innovation returns, reimagined for the wrist.
“This watch is the link between what we wish to share of the history of Breguet and our desire to perpetuate this history going forward.”
Gregory Kissling, CEO, Breguet
The face of the Souscription 2025 model is adorned with a dazzling white, grand feu enamel dial that faithfully reproduces the spirit of the timepieces once produced at the Quai de l’Horloge workshop, such as the No. 246, No. 324 and No. 383 watches. The back is directly inspired by the architecture of the first Souscription watches signed by A.-L. Breguet.
The dial, clad in flawless enamel, embodies the refined design language envisioned by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Rooted in simplicity and contrast, it’s effortlessly legible. At its center, a singular steel Breguet hand—flame-blued and hand-shaped with a graceful curve—glides above the signature slanted Breguet numerals and the iconic ‘chemin de fer’ minute track, which marks the hours and highlights 5, 10, 15, and 30-minute intervals. The numerals and markers are rendered in black petit feu enamel, matching the Breguet signature at 12 o’clock.
Below, depending on how the light hits, subtle details emerge: the “Souscription” label, a unique serial number, and Breguet’s discreet secret signature—all located between the centre and 6 o’clock. Originally introduced to authenticate Breguet timepieces and deter counterfeits, this signature is still engraved using a diamond-point pantograph, a tool with articulated arms that traces the past with extraordinary precision. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal with a ‘chevé’ profile—Breguet’s own innovation. Flatter and less domed than typical crystals of the era, its gentle curve transitions seamlessly into the case. This elegant silhouette, along with Breguet’s numerals and hands, remains a cornerstone of contemporary watch design.
With the Classique Souscription 2025, Breguet introduces its own gold alloy: Breguet gold, a blond precious metal that combines gold, silver, copper and palladium. The case, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm high, is of a new design, standing apart from other watches, with a particular attention paid to its ergonomics. The typical Breguet fluting has been replaced by a delicately satin-brushed case middle that respects the style of the original timepieces, while the lugs have been curved to better fit the wrist and, as such, offer a more fluid appearance than the traditional straight lugs.
On the back of the case, the large, slightly domed sapphire crystal reveals the intricate mechanics of the new VS00 calibre, crafted from gilded brass in the signature shade of Breguet gold. It features a fresh guilloché pattern introduced this year, called Quai de l’Horloge. Inspired by the unique curves of Île de la Cité and the graceful lines of Île Saint-Louis, this design creates a harmonious rhythm that can be endlessly varied. This new pattern celebrates guilloché as a living art, elevated by Breguet’s masterful craftsmanship. The design of the movement itself is a nod to the original Souscription watches created by A.-L. Breguet, blending history with innovation.
In the purest tradition of exceptional leather goods, Breguet is unveiling an original presentation box to mark its 250th anniversary. Inspired by the red Moroccan leather cases once used by A.-L. Breguet to protect his precious creations, this box, in lightly grained calf leather, features gold hot embossing bearing the inscription “BREGUET 250 YEARS”, which is accompanied by the individual serial number of the timepiece inside.
I was fortunate to view the watch in person prior to launch which was a wonderful experience. I have seen many original Breguet Souscription pocket watches, which are superb, and I can confirm, that this stunning timepiece has all the elements of the original but brings it into the present day and for many years to come.
The Classique Souscription 2025 comes with a special book written by Emmanuel Breguet, Head of Patrimony which charts the history of the Souscription watch.
Technical Specifications:
Classique Souscription 2025BH/28/9W6
Key features
Classique Souscription 2025, hand-wound VS00 calibre, 3Hz and 96-hour power reserve, fine shot-blasting, guilloché and hand-engraved, 40 mm-diameter 18K Breguet gold case, satin-brushed case middle, traditional grand feu white enamel dial, Breguet Arabic numerals and minute track in black petit feu enamel, single open tipped Breguet hand, flame-blued and curved by hand, alligator leather strap and 18K Breguet gold pin buckle.
Case
18K Breguet gold
40 mm diameter
10.8 mm thick
Satin-brushed case middle, crystal with a “chevé” profile, anti-reflective coating on both sides
“Quai de l’Horloge” handmade guilloché case back, crystal engraved with “BREGUET 250 YEARS”, anti-reflective coating inside
3 bar (30 m) water-resistance
Dial
White grand feu enamel on gold bas
Black, petit feu enamel Breguet signature
Black, petit feu enamel Breguet Arabic numerals,
Black, petit feu enamel minute track
“Souscription”, serial number and secret signature engraved with a diamond-point pantograph
Indication
Single hand indicating the time (resolution: +/- 2 minutes), curved with mirror polished chamfer, flame-blued steel
Price (RRP): £45,700.00
For more information please visit Breguet