Universal Genève Pays Tribute to ‘The Nina’ Compax

In the 1960s, Finnish model Nina Rindt brought unexpected glamour to the Formula One paddock. Married to racing legend Jochen Rindt, she became an icon of cool restraint—always trackside, timing laps with a Universal Genève Compax on her wrist.

That chronograph, gifted by her husband, was no ordinary piece. Legend has it Jochen swapped the seconds hand for a red one, making it easier for Nina to track his laps. But it was Nina’s own flair that transformed the watch’s legacy. Finding the bracelet too severe, she slipped it into a wide leather cuff she discovered in Paris—a pilot’s bund strap reimagined with effortless femininity. The result was bold, unconventional, and unmistakably hers.

Decades later, Universal Genève revisits this story with the Tribute to Compax: The Nina. Two sets of three watches, crafted in 18k white and red gold, mark the first reissue of this icon. Japanese artisan Satoru Hosoi recreates Nina’s signature strap, blending racing heritage with contemporary artistry.

Powered by the historic Universal 281 caliber, these rare editions celebrate more than a watch—they honour a moment when precision met style, and a chronograph became a cultural legend.

“For us, the Tribute to Compax is a statement of where we’re going: refined luxury shaped with the same meticulous handwork that has always defined UG.”
Gregory Bruttin, Managing Director, Universal Genève

At the heart of Universal Genève’s new Tribute to Compax lies a detail that defines its spirit—the handcrafted bund strap by renowned Japanese artisan Satoru Hosoi, marking his first-ever collaboration with a watch brand.

Trained in Japan and Italy, and a former craftsman at Hermès and Moynat, Hosoi earned the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2015. Working from his Paris atelier, he reinterprets the traditional pilot’s bund with couture precision. Formed from three inseparable layers of calfskin, his design transforms a utilitarian concept into something unmistakably refined. Each strap bears the Universal Genève and HOSOÏ-PARIS signatures, offered in fashion-forward yet timeless tones—brown or black for white gold, taupe or olive for red gold.

“I set out to create something that’s unprecedented, and at the same time highly technical and unique.”
Satoru Hosoi, Japanese Leather Artisan

The tribute continues on the dial, where grand feu enamel brings a depth and permanence few crafts can match. Fired over 800°C and perfected through multiple firings, the result is a flawless surface in classic white or black, and rich translucent blue or brown. A red chronograph hand—an homage to Nina Rindt’s original Compax—cuts cleanly across the dial.

Impeccably made and enduring by design, the Tribute to Compax embodies the same elegance and individuality that once made ‘the Nina’ a legend—proof that true style, like grand feu enamel, never fades.

Inside the Tribute to Compax beats a legend reborn. Universal Genève has restored original Caliber 281 movements—manual-winding, column-wheel chronographs that once defined the brand’s golden era. Measuring 28.5mm across and 7.1mm thick, these meticulously revived calibres connect the new Compax directly to its 1960s origins while signalling Universal Genève’s return to in-house movement making.

Every detail reflects the maison’s revived philosophy: watchmaking as a métier d’art. From Laurent Jolliet’s Polerouter bracelet of 2024—crafted by one of Switzerland’s last master chain-makers—to the Compax’s grand feu dials and couture bund straps, Universal Genève draws on the world’s finest artisans. Leather, enamel, and mechanics come together in perfect balance—each discipline elevated into art.

Nina Rindt’s spirit of individuality lives on here. Her red chronograph hand, her reimagined bund strap—symbols of instinctive style—are reinterpreted through modern craftsmanship. Only two complete sets of the Tribute to Compax will be created, available by private request. Proceeds will support the Geneva Watchmaking School, preserving the rare skills that shaped both Universal Genève and Swiss horology itself.

As the brand prepares for its full relaunch in 2026, the Tribute to Compax stands as a promise: a revival defined by precision, creativity, and uncompromising artistry—true to the spirit of ‘Le Couturier de la Montre’.

Technical Specifications:

Reference:	JU281121A1X1, RU281121B1X1 and RU281121Q1X1
WATCH MOVEMENT
	Caliber: Diameter: Thickness: Winding: Power reserve: Balance frequency: Display:Original restored Universal Genève 281 28.5 millimeters 7.10 millimeters Manual Approx. 36 hours 18,000 a/h or 2.5 hertz Hour, minute, small second, second chrono, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
CASE
	Material: Diameter: Thickness: Lug width: Height (upper lug tip to lower lug tip): Water resistance: Glass: Caseback: Crown: Bezel: 18K white gold or 18K red gold 36 millimeters 12.67 millimeters 19 millimeters 44.44 millimeters Up to 5 bar (50 meters) Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sides Polished 18 k white gold or 18 k red gold, screwed-in 18k white gold or 18 k red gold, non screw-locked, two gaskets Fixed aluminum with tachymeter scale
DIAL/HANDS
• White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, black varnished hour and minute hands, white varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand — all hands with Super-LumiNova®. • Black enamel dial with white enamel chronograph counters, red gold-plated hour and minute hands, black varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand — all hands with Super-LumiNova®. • Brown enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, red gold-plated varnished hour and minute hands, red gold-plated counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand — all hands with Super-LumiNova®.
STRAP
• Brown calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K white gold pin buckle. • Taupe and black calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K red gold pin buckle. • Olive and black calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K red gold pin buckle.

Reference:	JU281121B1X1, RU281121A1X1 and JU281121C1X1
WATCH MOVEMENT
	Caliber: Diameter: Thickness: Winding: Power reserve: Balance frequency: Display: Original restored Universal Genève 281 28.5 millimeters 7.10 millimeters Manual Approx. 36 hours 18,000 a/h or 2.5 hertz Hour, minute, small second, second chrono, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
CASE
	Material: Diameter: Thickness: Lug width: Height (upper lug tip to lower lug tip): Water resistance: Glass: Caseback: Crown: Bezel: 18K white gold or 18K red gold 36 millimeters 12.67 millimeters 19 millimeters 44.44 millimeters Up to 5 bar (50 meters) Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sides Polished 18K white gold, screwed-in 18K white gold, non screw-locked, two gaskets Fixed aluminum with tachymeter scale
DIAL/HANDS
• Black enamel dial with white enamel chronograph counters, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, black varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand — all hands with Super-LumiNova®. • White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, black varnished hour and minute hands, white varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand — all hands with Super-LumiNova®. • Blue enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, white varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand — all hands with Super-LumiNova®.
STRAP
• Brown calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K white gold pin buckle. • Taupe and black calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K red gold pin buckle. • Black calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K white gold pin buckle.