In an industry defined by precision, symmetry and tradition, Exaequo is something of a beautiful anomaly. It is a brand that dares to distort time itself, literally transforming the rigid geometry of watchmaking into something fluid, expressive and unmistakably surreal.
At a glance, an Exaequo watch looks as though it has slipped off the wrist and begun to melt. That, of course, is entirely the point.
A Surrealist Legacy
Exaequo’s story begins in 1990, when the brand introduced the now-iconic “Softwatch”—a design inspired by the melting clocks of Surrealism.
Drawing heavily on the dreamlike visual language associated with artists such as Salvador Dalí, the watch challenged conventional horology from the outset. Its asymmetrical, flowing case appeared to sag and warp, as if time itself had softened under pressure.
The concept was radical, and it resonated. The Softwatch quickly gained cult status during the 1990s, celebrated as a piece of wearable art rather than a purely functional object. But the brand’s early success was short-lived. Legal issues tied to the use of Dalí’s name and imagery led to its closure in 1998, leaving behind a small but devoted following of collectors and design enthusiasts.
The Rebirth Of A Cult Icon
Fast forward to today, and Exaequo has re-emerged with renewed purpose. Relaunched under new ownership, the brand retains its original DNA while refining its identity for a contemporary audience. At its core remains the same philosophical premise: time is not rigid, it is subjective, fluid and deeply personal. As the brand itself describes, its creations explore “time that melts,” a poetic metaphor for life’s fleeting and fragile nature.
This isn’t just design for design’s sake. It’s a deliberate attempt to challenge how we perceive time on the wrist.
The Melting Watch – A Signature Redefined
Central to Exaequo’s revival is the aptly named Melting Watch collection, a modern evolution of the original Softwatch concept. The signature case remains instantly recognisable, elongated, pinched and seemingly in motion. Yet today’s executions are more refined, with updated materials, improved finishing and a broader range of dial variations.
Recent releases demonstrate how far the concept can be pushed. Limited editions introduce iridescent dials, rose gold tones and sculptural steel bracelets, while maintaining the brand’s hallmark asymmetry. Meanwhile, newer models such as the Revolve and Polyhedron explore fresh interpretations of the surrealist theme—whether through rotating forms or complex, multi-faceted cases.
Despite these evolutions, the essence remains unchanged: each piece is designed to provoke, intrigue and spark conversation.
Between Art And Horology
Exaequo occupies a fascinating space within modern watchmaking. It is neither purely a fashion brand nor a traditional horological house. Instead, it sits at the intersection of art, design and timekeeping.
Its watches are powered by reliable quartz or electromechanical movements—practical choices that allow the design to take centre stage.
But to focus solely on the mechanics would be to miss the point. Exaequo watches are less about chronometry and more about expression. They are objects that invite interpretation, much like the artworks that inspired them.
A Modern Cult Favourite
In recent years, Exaequo has begun to re-establish itself among collectors and enthusiasts, particularly those drawn to independent brands with strong visual identities. Its appearance at events such as WatchPro Salon in London signals a growing ambition to reach a wider audience.
Often described as an accessible alternative to far more expensive surrealist timepieces, Exaequo offers something rare in today’s market: genuine originality.
Time, Reimagined
Ultimately, Exaequo is not about telling time in the conventional sense. It is about questioning it.
By bending, distorting and reshaping the very form of the watch, the brand invites us to reconsider our relationship with time, less as a strict measurement, and more as a fluid, personal experience.
In doing so, Exaequo reminds us that watchmaking, at its most compelling, is not just about engineering. It is about imagination.
And sometimes, the most interesting way to measure time…is to let it melt.
For more information please visit Exaequo