By Alan Wood
Explore the finest vintage watches from the 1950s–1970s, featuring iconic models from Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Alan Wood is a trusted vintage watch dealer with over 35 years of private collecting experience. After founding Vintage Gold Watches in 2011, his deep knowledge and infectious passion for mechanical timepieces earned him a highly respected reputation in the industry. Vintage Gold Watches has become a renowned dealer thanks to Alan’s expertise and skilled team of restorers. Alan’s love for vintage watches started as a young Mechanical Entrepreneur and grew into an obsession. He believes the finest watches were made in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s, and is thrilled to share them with others.
The 20th century was a golden era for pioneering watchmakers, bringing forth an array of innovative timepieces that redefined craftsmanship and design. With so many extraordinary watch houses producing a vast selection of iconic models, navigating the world of vintage watches can feel overwhelming.
While it’s true that not every vintage timepiece is a hidden gem, this shouldn’t deter you. Recognising timeless classics can help you distinguish between treasures and less desirable options. Coupling that knowledge with guidance from a trusted vintage watch dealer will put you on the right path.
What Defines the Best Vintage Watches?
The vintage watch market is expansive, making it difficult to narrow down the finest examples of the 20th century. For this selection, we focus on watches from the golden age of horology—between the 1950s and 1970s—when watchmaking saw groundbreaking advancements in precision, durability, and reliability.
The world wars spurred unprecedented research and development, leading to innovations in shock resistance, water resistance, and anti-magnetic technology. Many of these pioneering advancements laid the foundation for the most celebrated watch models we see today.
Our selection encompasses various price points, with most pieces falling between £3,000 and £7,000. While this may not be inexpensive, it reflects the value of a well-crafted, historically significant, and highly sought-after vintage timepiece.
Now, let’s explore some of the standout watches from this defining period.
Patek Philippe Calatrava – The Quintessential Dress Watch
Since its early days, Patek Philippe has been revered as the pinnacle of watchmaking excellence, and the Calatrava remains one of the brand’s most influential models. It holds significance for three key reasons:
(1) Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has been a cornerstone of Patek Philippe’s collection, maintaining its prestige to this day.
(2) Its design became the blueprint for modern “time-only” dress watches.
(3) The model helped transition Patek from producing small-batch timepieces to serial wristwatch manufacturing.
The Calatrava’s impact was so profound that, instead of a mere reference number, it was given a name—a rarity for Patek Philippe at the time. The watch was named after the Calatrava Cross, the company’s emblem since 1887.
Designed during the 1930s when wristwatches were gaining popularity, the Calatrava was inspired by the Bauhaus principle of “form follows function.” David Penney’s minimalist design distilled timekeeping to its purest essence.
Though its simplicity may seem familiar today, the Calatrava Reference 96 was revolutionary upon its release, characterized by its sleek lines, round case, and understated elegance. This model set the standard for dress watches and remains a timeless classic.
Notable Patek Philippe Calatrava Models:
- Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 (1945) – Stainless Steel
- Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 2589 (1966) – 18ct Gold
- Patek Philippe Ref. 2501 (1951) – Calatrava Disco Volante 18ct
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback – The Birth of Rolex’s Automatic Legacy
Rolex is the most collected watch brand, and the Oyster Perpetual played a fundamental role in shaping its legacy. As the first commercially successful waterproof automatic watch, it laid the foundation for Rolex’s future innovations.
Early models, however, were considered too small for contemporary wear. That changed in 1950 when Rolex introduced an improved version with a larger 34mm case and a distinctive “bubble back” to house the expanded rotor and movement. Available in both gold and steel, this model quickly became a status symbol.
The Oyster Perpetual remains the precursor to all Rolex automatic watches, leading to a vast array of celebrated models. Though it may not command as much attention as later sports Rolexes, the Bubbleback was instrumental in Rolex’s success, making it a prized collector’s piece today.
Notable Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback Models:
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback (1955) – 14ct Gold
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback Ref. 6084 (1952) – “Explorer” Dial
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback Ref. 6085 (c.1952) – Quilted Dial
Omega Seamaster – A Rugged and Refined Classic
Introduced in 1948, the Omega Seamaster remains one of the most enduring and versatile watch collections. Early Seamaster models, particularly those from the 1948–1958 period, are highly coveted for their innovation and reliability.
The Seamaster introduced the O-ring gasket to enhance water resistance, replacing lead with rubber for improved durability across temperature variations. This technological breakthrough made it an excellent choice for divers, though it wasn’t until 1957 that the Seamaster 300 truly established itself as a diving legend.
Built on Omega’s wartime expertise—having supplied over 100,000 watches to the military—the Seamaster was battle-tested long before it hit the civilian market. With a variety of styles and configurations, there is a Seamaster for every collector.
Notable Omega Seamaster Models:
- Omega Seamaster Calendar Ref. 2849 SC (1957) – 18ct Gold
- Omega Seamaster Automatic Cal. 501 (1956) – 18ct Pink Gold
- Omega Seamaster Bumper Automatic Ref. 14351 SC (1952) – 18ct Pink Gold
Rolex Datejust – The Game-Changer
Few watches have influenced Rolex’s success as profoundly as the Datejust. Launched in 1945, it was the first self-winding wristwatch to feature an automatic date-change function, setting the standard for modern date complications.
Combining Rolex’s waterproof Oyster case (1926) with the self-winding Perpetual movement (1931), the Datejust introduced the now-iconic date window. Though the “Datejust” name didn’t appear on dials until the mid-1950s, the model quickly became a Rolex staple.
The early Datejust models (1945–1954) are particularly prized for their rarity and unique dial configurations, making them some of the most collectible Rolex watches from the mid-century.
Notable Rolex Datejust Models:
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 6105 (1952) – 18ct with Red Date
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 6605 (1957) – 18ct Pink Gold, Roulette Date
- Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 1601 (1955) – 14ct Gold
High-Quality Chronographs – Omega & Jaeger-LeCoultre
Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre have produced some of the finest chronographs of the mid-20th century. While not as expensive as Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, their movements are equally impressive and offer excellent value for collectors.
From Omega’s legendary Calibre 321 chronograph to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s elegant timepieces, these watches showcase mid-century engineering at its best.
Notable Chronographs:
- Omega Chronograph Cal. 321 (1948) – 18ct Yellow Gold
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 285 Chronograph (1952) – 18ct Pink Gold, 38mm
Conclusion
The mid-20th century was a defining era in watchmaking, producing some of the most celebrated timepieces of all time. These watches continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering both historical significance and enduring craftsmanship.
If you have any questions about vintage watches or would like to see some of the models highlighted here, get in touch with Vintage Gold Watches. Stay up to date on the fascinating world of vintage watches by signing up for their weekly newsletter.