By Alan Wood
Compact case sizes are back in fashion, as collectors embrace the elegance, balance and heritage of smaller vintage wristwatches.
Alan Wood, founder of Vintage Gold Watches, is a trusted vintage watch dealer with over 35 years of private collecting experience. His deep knowledge and infectious passion for mechanical timepieces have earned him a highly respected reputation in the industry. Vintage Gold Watches, established in 2011, has become a reputable dealer thanks to Alan’s expertise and a skilled team of restorers. Alan’s love for vintage watches started as a young Mechanical Engineer and grew into an obsession. He believes the finest watches were made in the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s, and he is thrilled to share them with others.
From mid-century elegance to modern-day refinement, we explore why the most stylish watches often come in the most compact cases.
Big, bold and brash may grab attention, but when it comes to classic wristwatches, true refinement lies in understatement. At a time when oversized cases have dominated the modern watch landscape, a quiet revolution is taking place. Collectors, connoisseurs and brands alike are rediscovering the enduring appeal of smaller watches, timepieces that echo the craftsmanship, proportions and restraint of horology’s golden era.
Smaller doesn’t mean less significant. In fact, some of the most iconic and technically impressive watches in history were compact in size yet grand in impact. As the tide turns against bulk and bravado, let’s explore why watch lovers are once again embracing the elegance of modestly sized timepieces.
A History Written in Millimetres
Long before today’s trend for 45mm wristwear took hold, the dress watch of choice for the discerning gentleman was understated and discreet. In the mid-20th century, watchmakers regularly produced timepieces ranging from 32mm to 36mm – a size considered ideal for both comfort and classic styling. These were not just design decisions; they were statements of intent and craftsmanship.
Take the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96, released in 1932. Measuring just 31mm across, this now-legendary reference became the blueprint for balanced, minimalist design. It wasn’t trying to make a loud entrance. Instead, it offered quiet sophistication, supreme comfort and mechanical precision housed in a perfectly proportioned case. For decades, that level of finesse defined what made a truly great watch.
But this wasn’t unique to Patek. Vacheron Constantin, Longines, Omega and countless others created similarly sized masterpieces – models now revered not only for their aesthetics but also for the level of technical accomplishment required to produce such compact, reliable movements.
The Age of Oversize
In more recent decades, however, the industry pivoted sharply. Starting in the late 1990s and escalating through the 2000s, watch cases ballooned in size. What was once an elegant 34mm daily wearer suddenly seemed dainty beside 44mm behemoths. Design gave way to dominance, and restraint was often swapped for wrist presence.
The rise of oversized watches was partly driven by fashion and partly by production realities. It’s no secret that larger cases are simpler, and often cheaper, to manufacture. Movements have more space, tolerances can be more forgiving and the aesthetic is easier to mass-market, especially when visibility and impact are key selling points.
Yet the shift wasn’t just physical. It also marked a move away from the values that once defined high-end watchmaking: finesse, balance and the artistry of achieving more with less.
Why Small Still Matters
In contrast to their oversized counterparts, smaller watches offer a kind of wearable harmony. They’re not just lighter and more comfortable, they’re often far more versatile too. A 34mm or 36mm watch sits elegantly beneath a cuff. It doesn’t demand attention but earns admiration through proportion, finish and history.
From a technical standpoint, smaller watches showcase the peak of horological expertise. Crafting a reliable movement to fit within a modest case diameter requires deep mechanical knowledge and incredible attention to detail. In the golden era of Swiss watchmaking, this was seen as a badge of honour. Every millimetre mattered. Watchmakers didn’t hide behind size, they thrived within the constraints it offered.
For collectors, this is where the charm lies. Smaller watches evoke an era where the emphasis was on substance over scale. They carry the quiet confidence of something built to last, not just to impress.
The Vintage Watch Revival
As more collectors return to vintage references, it’s no coincidence that the average case size in many watch rolls is shrinking. The past five years have seen a marked increase in demand for watches from the 1940s to 1970s, decades when 33mm to 36mm was the norm for men’s watches. And while today’s wrists haven’t necessarily got any smaller, tastes certainly have.
The renewed focus on vintage pieces has also reshaped the market for modern watches. Many leading brands are now revisiting their archives, reissuing smaller models or releasing new designs in sizes once considered unfashionably modest. Tudor, Omega, Cartier and even Rolex have responded with 36mm options that channel mid-century sensibilities.
This isn’t just nostalgia. It’s a recognition that proportion and elegance are timeless traits. And that no matter how far technology advances, there’s still an irreplaceable magic in a well-sized, beautifully crafted timepiece.
Small Doesn’t Mean Subtle
It’s worth saying: not all small watches are quiet. Many deliver serious punch in terms of design, finishing and presence. Think of the Cartier Tank, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or the Universal Genève Polerouter, all relatively compact watches that make a bold impression through design rather than dimensions.
Similarly, dive watches from the 1950s and 60s, like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms or the early Rolex Submariners, were rarely more than 38mm, yet they remain among the most celebrated tool watches in history.
In the world of vintage chronographs too, many sought-after models, such as early Heuer Carreras or Breitling Navitimers, were produced in sizes that today’s buyers might call ‘understated’. And yet, their desirability has only grown.
How to Embrace Smaller Watches Today
If you’re exploring the vintage market or simply want to experience the comfort and elegance of a smaller watch, here are a few considerations:
- Start around 34mm–36mm: These sizes tend to offer a sweet spot between wearability and vintage character. On many wrists, especially with thinner lugs or a slim bezel, they’ll wear larger than expected.
- Try before you judge: Case shape, lug design and dial size all affect how a watch wears. A 33mm square case can feel much larger than a 36mm round one.
- Prioritise proportions: Look for watches where the case, dial and hands are all in balance. Poorly executed small watches can look cramped, but vintage pieces from the mid-century rarely suffer that problem.
- Value and rarity: Many smaller vintage watches remain undervalued simply because they’re not part of the oversized trend. That can mean better condition, more original examples and rarer references, all at more accessible prices.
The Future is Modest
In a world of ever-larger devices and relentless visual noise, the appeal of a compact, well-crafted watch feels more relevant than ever. It’s not about nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. It’s about a reconnection with the essence of what a wristwatch was always meant to be: functional, elegant, discreet and above all, wearable.
At Vintage Gold Watches, we’ve long championed the value of classic proportions and the technical mastery they represent. For us, small watches aren’t a compromise, they’re the pinnacle of purposeful design.
So, whether you’re already a convert or simply curious, don’t overlook the charm and credibility of smaller vintage watches. They may whisper instead of shout, but their story speaks volumes.
Explore our curated collection of elegantly sized vintage timepieces at Vintage Gold Watches, and sign up to our newsletter for expert insights, collector tips and the latest arrivals direct to your inbox.