To mark its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin reimagines its rich heritage in contemporary style with fresh interpretations of two Maison’s signatures, the retrograde display and the openworked dial.
The first Vacheron Constantin watch with a partially openworked dial was created in 1918. It was a pocket watch with an astronomical calendar – a completely innovative design at the time. The Maison introduced its first wristwatch to feature a retrograde date in 1940. A technical feat nicknamed ‘Don Pancho’, the Reference 3620 vanished for almost 60 years before reappearing at auction in 2019.
These 270th anniversary limited editions marry signature complications and sophisticated, contemporary design to the classical stylistic codes of the Traditionelle collection. The cases, sculpted from 950 platinum, feature the Traditionelle signatures: stepped lugs, a fluted caseback and a slender bezel. Reflecting watchmaking tradition, the dial has a railway-type minutes track, faceted Dauphine-style hands and the collection’s signature applied gold baton hour-markers.
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface model (above) features a new self-winding manufacture movement, Calibre 2460 QPR31/270, equipped with two complications. The first is a perpetual calendar displaying the days, months and leap-year cycle, requiring no correction until 2100. These indications are complemented by the moon phases in an aperture at 6 o’clock, accurately tracking the moon’s actual cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. This precision moon-phase display with its realistically designed lunar surface will need just one correction every 122 years. The second complication is a retrograde date display in the upper part of the dial. The openworked dial reveals the mechanism’s beauty and technical sophistication. To enhance the airy appearance of the calibre while ensuring the legibility of the time indications, the sapphire discs with the day, month and leap-year markings are set against a deep blue background. This slim new manufacture calibre is just 5.45 mm thick.
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface watch (above) is powered by the self-winding Calibre 2162 R31/270, a 242-component manufacture movement with a 72-hour power reserve. Operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and measuring just 6.35 mm thick thanks to its peripheral gold oscillating weight, it combines a tourbillon at 6 o’clock with a retrograde date whose intricate workings can be seen through the upper part of the openworked dial.
To power the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface model (above), Vacheron Constantin has opted for the manufacture Calibre 2460 QCL/270: a more modern version of the Calibre 2450, which was the first self-winding iteration of the complete calendar entirely designed and developed in-house. In addition to its triple calendar indications – day of the week, date and month – it has a precision moon-phase display that needs adjustment only once in 122 years. The openworked dial reveals part of the 312-component self-winding mechanism. Pursuing the goal of legibility, the Maison’s watchmakers and designers have chosen to display the date around the periphery of the dial using a blued hand, while the day and month are marked on sapphire discs and contrast with the blue background of the apertures.
These limited editions feature openworked dials with a signature pattern inspired by the outline of the Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880. Resulting from lengthy research by the Maison’s specialised artisans, this finely hand-guilloché decoration brings to mind the dial of the Reference 6068, launched in 1955 to mark the bicentenary of the Maison and creates a subtle play of light and shade with every movement of the wearer’s wrist.
The exposed calibres also demonstrate the attention the Maison’s watchmakers devote to details. Each component is carefully finished, chamfered, polished or rounded off by hand to enhance the beauty of the calibres’ structure. This stylistic refinement continues with the caseback view, which reveals the ‘côte unique’ finishing on the bridges. More than 500 hours were required to regain mastery of this rare technique, clearly reflecting Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to preserving and passing on its savoir-faire through the generations.
Technical Specifications:
TRADITIONNELLE PERPETUAL CALENDAR RETROGRADE DATE OPENFACE
Reference
4030T/000P-H054
Calibre
2460 QPR31/270
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
‘Côte unique’ finish and 270th anniversary signature
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11 ¼”’) in diameter, 5.45 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Perpetual calendar: day of the week, date, month, leap-year indication
Precision moon phase
Retrograde date hand
Case
950 platinum
41 mm in diameter, 10.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Openface, two parts:
- Openworked dial in 18K gold, hand-guilloché with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
- Movement plate decorated with vertical straightening
18K applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hours and minutes handsRetrograde date hand in blued 18K gold
Bracelet
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Buckle
950 platinum folding buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Limited edition of 370
Price upon application
TRADITIONNELLE TOURBILLON RETROGRADE DATE OPENFACE
Reference
6010T/000P-H055
Calibre
2162 R31/270
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
‘Côte unique’ finish and 270th anniversary signature
Mechanical, self-winding
31 mm (13 ½”’) in diameter, 6.35 mm thick
Approximately 72-hour power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
242 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Retrograde date
Small seconds on the tourbillon
Case
950 platinum
41 mm in diameter, 11.07 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Openface, two parts:
- Openworked dial in 18K gold, hand-guilloché with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
- Movement plate decorated with vertical straightening
18K applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands
Retrograde date hand in blued 18K gold
Bracelet
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Buckle
950 platinum folding buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Limited edition of 370
Price upon application
TRADITIONNELLE COMPLETE CALENDAR OPENFACE
Reference
4020T/000P-H038
Calibre
2460 QCL/270
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
‘Côte unique’ finish and 270th anniversary signature
Mechanical, self-winding
29 mm (11 ¼ ”’) in diameter, 6.35 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
312 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Complete calendar with day, date, month and precision moon-phase display
Case
950 platinum
41 mm in diameter, 11.05 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Openface, two parts
Hand-guilloché white gold with a 270th anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
Movement plate decorated with vertical straightening
18K applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands
Date hand in blued 18K gold
Bracelet
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales
Buckle
950 platinum folding buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Limited edition of 370
Price upon application
For more information please visit Vacheron Constantin