Vacheron Constantin Pays Tribute To Ancient Chinese Culture

Vacheron Constantin new Métiers d’Art collection pays tribute to ancient Chinese culture. The tribute to traditional symbols series, features two interpretations of the ‘Seawater Cliff’, a legendary Chinese motif that first appeared in the 14th century.

This depiction of wave-lashed cliffs belongs to the cultural tradition of Imperial China, a special field of study for Mr. Song, the Former Associate Research Librarian of the Palace Museum, who guided the Vacheron Constantin artisans on this project. Housed in a 39 mm-diameter case in 18K pink or white gold, powered by Calibre 2460 driving central hours and minutes hands, these dials provide a forceful, beautiful expression of Chinese cultural symbolism.diameter of the gemset versions and 34.5 mm for the non-set models.

Although water and mountains inspired the decoration of various artefacts in China as early as the Neolithic period – and were represented in an increasingly figurative way throughout the first millennium AD – the combination of the two came later. It was with the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties that the motif really took shape. Officially named ‘Seawater Cliff’ under Emperor Wanli (1573-1620), it was reserved for the Imperial family. As its name suggests, this motif refers to the sea, its tides represented by long undulating lines that come crashing down in powerful surges against the cliff.

In Chinese, the words ‘tide’ and ‘dynasty’ are homonyms, while the word ‘cliff’ can also mean ‘ginger buds’ – of which one can recognise the outline on the edge of this escarpment overlooking the sea. In Chinese tradition, water and mountains are also strong territorial symbols. With this ‘Seawater Cliff’ motif richly emblazoned on his ceremonial robes the emperor embodied stability. Like the unshakeable cliff above the waves, a symbol of peace and longevity, he was the guarantor of the country’s fortune and prosperity. This motif became very popular and spread across all social classes in furniture, sculpture, decorative objects and architecture.

Beating at the heart of the 39 mm-diameter case in 18K pink and white gold is in-house Calibre 2460, chosen for its aesthetic appeal and compact dimensions (26.2 mm in diameter and 3.60 mm thick). The movement’s configuration driving central hands ensures seamless integration with the dial to give scope and depth to the passing hours and minutes. Endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, it meets all the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva certifying both origin and horological expertise. The 22K gold rotor echoes the symbolism of the dial, since the oscillating weight is delicately engraved with a motif recalling the movement of waves and tides.

Against a star-studded night sky, the mountain peaks, bordered by vegetation in the shape of ginger buds, are caressed by tidal waves. With its colourful aesthetic and respect for traditional Chinese ornamentation, this depiction is a masterpiece of cloisonné enamelling, which was originated in China. The technique is also named Jingtai Blue, which pays tribute to its heyday which is in the era of Emperor Jingtai in the Ming Dynasty. The latter technique was a natural choice because of the flexibility it offers in terms of both the choice of colours and the graphic design of the intricate shapes.

To highlight this enamelling work, the bezel of the model is entirely hand-engraved with a bat motif. In Chinese, ‘bat’ and ‘happiness’ have similar pronunciations – which goes some way to explaining the status of this animal as a harbinger of good fortune.

For this second ‘Seawater Cliff’ motif, the aim was to achieve a depth effect on a monochrome base. Crafted in 18K white or pink gold depending on the model, the all-in-one-piece dial features hollowed waves, blue enamelled parts and raised diamond-set sections for the mountain area. The master artisan has used a blend of techniques to create this composition, endowing the motif with a subtle yet distinctive aesthetic.

The gold dial is divided into three parts. The first, which delineates the sea, is made of deep-blue Grand Feu enamel applied in successive kiln-fired layers. This is followed by patient engraving. The technique used for this depiction of waves is engraving on enamel to create volutes. These are then accentuated by the master artisan, who fills in the furrows with white enamel that is then also fired. This extremely thin layer creates a subtle shadow on a delicately textured background, creating the impression of a sea in motion.

The second part, devoted to the sea tides running along the mountain range, is reserved for the setting. Each sea tide is delicately hand-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, evoking the moon slivers that inspired the name of this piece. The third part of the dial serves to add relief, with a mountain range lashed by foaming waves. The sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the sea tides exude an ashen moonlight gleam, echoed by the setting of the bezel entirely adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Eternal Flow