MB&F Add Colour To Their Iconic LM Perpetual With Chromatic Editions
In 2015, MB&F rewrote the rules of the perpetual calendar with the launch of the award-winning Legacy Machine Perpetual. More than a decade later, the independent watchmaker unveils a strikingly expressive new chapter for the collection, the LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions.
The three highly limited references distinguished by brilliantly coloured gemstone-set bezels and the same groundbreaking mechanical ingenuity that transformed modern calendar watchmaking. Crafted in editions of just eight pieces each, the new models pair the technical brilliance of Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell’s perpetual calendar architecture with an unapologetically bold use of colour and precious stones.
Three Colours, Three Characters
The Chromatic Editions arrive in three distinct executions. Two are presented in 18k white gold with bezels set respectively with baguette-cut blue sapphires and purple sapphires, sourced from Madagascar and Sri Lanka. The third, housed in 18k red gold, features a bezel illuminated by baguette-cut Mozambique rubies.
Each bezel is meticulously hand-set with 48 baguette-cut gemstones by Geneva-based artisan partner STG Creation, creating a vibrant halo around the openworked perpetual calendar display without altering the elegant proportions of the 44mm case.
Further elevating the visual harmony, MB&F has colour-matched the hands to each edition: blue PVD for the sapphire model, purple PVD for the violet iteration and warm 5N PVD hands for the ruby-set red gold version. The result is a trio of watches that balances haute joaillerie sophistication with avant-garde horology, an unmistakable MB&F signature.
Reinventing the Perpetual Calendar
At the heart of every LM Perpetual lies one of the most innovative perpetual calendar mechanisms created in contemporary watchmaking. Rather than refining the conventional system, MB&F and Stephen McDonnell approached the complication from first principles.
Beginning with a blank sheet of paper, they developed a fully integrated 581-component movement that eliminates many of the frustrations traditionally associated with perpetual calendars.
Conventional perpetual calendars are built around a default 31-day month, mechanically “skipping” unnecessary dates at the end of shorter months. This often results in vulnerable mechanisms, difficult corrections and the potential for damage if adjusted during changeover periods.
The LM Perpetual adopts a radically different philosophy. Its patented “mechanical processor” assumes a default 28-day month and mechanically adds the extra days only when required. The benefit is both elegant and practical: every month displays precisely the correct number of days with no skipped dates or accelerated transitions.
The system also incorporates built-in safeguards that automatically disengage the quick-set pushers during date changes, preventing accidental damage, a rare example of genuine user-centric engineering in haute horlogerie.
Mechanical Theatre On The Wrist
As technically impressive as the movement may be, the LM Perpetual’s greatest triumph remains its visual drama. Freed from the architectural constraints of traditional perpetual calendar systems, MB&F transformed the movement itself into the dial.
Suspended above the display is the collection’s now-iconic oversized balance wheel, floating majestically beneath a polished bridge and connected to the escapement below by what is believed to be the world’s longest balance staff.
Below, skeletonised subdials appear to levitate above the movement, displaying day, date, month, leap year and power reserve indications with remarkable clarity and symmetry.
The arrangement is both mechanically complex and visually serene — an unusual achievement for a perpetual calendar, a complication often associated with crowded and overly technical displays.
A Modern Horological Landmark
When it debuted, the Legacy Machine Perpetual received widespread acclaim, culminating in the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2016.
More importantly, it established itself as one of the defining perpetual calendars of the modern era, not merely because it looked different, but because it fundamentally worked differently.
The Chromatic Editions now add a fresh emotional dimension to that achievement. Vibrant yet restrained, technically radical yet unmistakably elegant, they demonstrate MB&F’s continued ability to merge high watchmaking with artistic expression in a manner few contemporary brands can rival.
With only eight examples produced in each colourway, the LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions are destined to become some of the rarest and most collectible executions of this landmark complication.
Technical Specifications:
LEGACY MACHINE PERPETUAL
Legacy Machine Perpetual has been crafted in the following editions:
– in platinum 950 with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k white gold with dark grey face;
– in grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces);
– in 18k yellow gold with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in palladium 950 with aquamarine face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in stainless steel with salmon face;
– in stainless steel with diamond-set bezel (exclusive to Ahmed Seddiqi – 5 pieces);
– in 18k rhodium-plated red gold with red rubies bezel (limited to 8 pieces);
– in 18k rhodium-plated white gold with blue sapphires bezel (limited to 8 pieces);
– in 18k rhodium-plated white gold with purple sapphires bezel (limited to 8 pieces).
Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels. Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators
Case
Material: 18k 5N+ red gold, 18k white gold, 18k 3N yellow gold, platinum 950, grade 5 titanium, palladium 950 or stainless steel.
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90′ / 3 ATM
Gemstones (for LM Perpetual Chromatic editions)
Red rubies: 1.95 cts (Mozambique)
Blue sapphires: 1.95 cts (Madagascar & Sri Lanka)
Purple sapphires: 1.93 cts (Madagascar)
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
Black, grey, brown, blue or white hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum / titanium or stainless-steel folding buckle matching case material.
Price
Retail price of these new editions is CHF 228,000 + VAT (US$ 312,000 / EUR 248,000 + tax).
For more information please visit MB&F